There are no above ground rivers in Yucatán, MX but there are over 6000 fresh water sinkholes or cenotes 😉 It is believed that the dinosaur killing astroid that impacted the earth bazillions of years ago, happened here & created the Chicxulub Crater. As the Earth rose up from the crater impact, the surface waters were sent underground into a labyrinth of limestone caves creating the Ring of Cenotes. We didn’t visit many in the end, mainly because the first one was so amazing & we had it all to ourselves. I just wasn’t sure any other could compare.
Some cenotes are on private land, where local residents charge a small price, $20 pesos to get in & maybe also offer a snack stand & bathroom.
Some cenotes have been built up into much larger parks containing multiple other cultural experiences like a chocolate ceremony, being blessed by a Mayan priest or a swing up bar 😂
Still, others have yet to be discovered which is a real concern as progress makes its way through this precious landscape via the Maya train. Mexican geologists are racing against time & track laying to discover & map as many cenotes as possible, for both their cultural & environmental significance.
Culturally, a cenote would have been the main water source for a Mayan community. The Mayan knew to look for a specific kind of tree which meant an underground water source was nearby, making the land in this area more fertile & sustainable for a village.
Environmentally, cenotes are still a vital water source for the Yucatán peninsula. There is great concern that as progress rolls through, these underground rivers will be contaminated or worse, the delicate terrain above them will simply collapse.
Cenotes are exclusively found in the Yucatan Peninsula (in Mexico), Belize & Guatemala, where the soil is porous & soft limestone, which allowed rainwater to seep in & create an underground system of rivers called the Sac Actun System. The largest underground river system in the world, located along the Mexican Caribbean, connects all the cenotes.
The life cycle of a cenote is unpredictable. There are open cenotes, partial cenotes & completely underground cenotes. Some were once moist caves growing stalagmites & stalactites that one day or over a thousand years flooded with water. Others, once flowing, dried up.
Visit one, visit them all (well good luck with that) you could certainly spend a day cenote hopping in one general area. Bring a mask & snorkel 🤿 but keep your eyes peeled for Tsukán, the guardian & protector of the sacred waters 🌊
The Mexican police have been a far larger presence in our adventures than I would have liked. When we initially saw so many in SMA, we felt safe, when we encountered them at the Merida airport ✈️ we felt annoyed but this time we just felt stupid & have absolutely no one to blame but ourselves.
We spent our last rainy Saturday in Chuburná packing & prepping for our return to Playa Del Carmen. One thing we have gotten pretty good at is meal scheduling & not over buying food 🥗 We don’t have to throw things out or leave them behind or figure out how to keep things cold in transport. All that to say, we had no food in the house for dinner, so we decided to head into Progreso as we finally had a chance to try Humo Bistro’s clam chowder 🥣 which is only available on weekends.
Chicken AlfredoTomato BisqueTuna$$$Clam Chowder
We arrived for a late lunch/early dinner, about 3:30 in the afternoon. We figured cocktails, a big meal & a last walk on the malecon 🏖️ would be a fitting ending to our recovery time here on the north shore of Yucatán & it would have been, if we had taken that walk along the beachfront.
Progresso Malecon from an earlier time in town….
We sat for a couple hours, enjoying the cooler Mexican winter day & talking about next adventures, both in MX & back in Colorado this summer. I had three glasses of wine 🍷 & Dave, two old fashions 🥃 over the course of two hours 🕔 This is when we should have taken that walk along the beachfront but alas we headed back “home” to finish laundry 🧺 So responsible in what would turn out to be our irresponsibility 🤦🏼♀️
We had been in this general area for about two months over the course of our Mexican travels. We had gotten to know our way around, main roads & back roads. This evening would have been a good time to take the slightly longer route through town & around the marina, but instead we opted for the quicker known route to the highway & the police check point.
We had been told several times that Mexico has a ZERO tolerance for driving after drinking, because to be super clear, neither of us were drunk. So as usual, long story longer… when we saw the flashing lights, we should have pulled over or turn down the next street but we did not & on we went to the checkpoint.
Dave blew into the officer’s breathalyzer & whatever it was, was enough for the officer to ask us to pull to the side of the road. As some may know, the legal blood alcohol level in the United States to be considered impaired to drive is anything over .08. In Mexico 🇲🇽 it is half that in a majority of the states, & although I couldn’t find anything online, I think it is even less than that in the state of Yucatán, like .02 (which is the equivalent of 1 beverage 🍸 ) Believe me, we are not proud of this situation, it does turn out to be a funny antidote (in hindsight) & for those of you who have had negative experiences in life regarding DUIs, I apologize in advance if you find this offensive. (maybe skip the rest of this post.)
Off to 2nd breathalizerHere are your options, Señor
The officers were very nice as they asked for our documents & keys & led Dave down the sidewalk for a second breathalyzer test. I sat in the car wondering if I should text our local friend for advice, help, bail money… when Dave & another officer returned to the car. Here were our choices, a hefty fine or 36 hours in jail 😬 Have we mentioned how much fun we had down in Mexico?
Not surprisingly, we opted for the fine. Remember how we had no debit card? Well thankfully, we got that sorted but unfortunately, I left my purse at the house two pueblos away. The police had kept the keys, docs & Dave’s driver’s license, that meant we had to get a taxi to the house, grab my card, feed the pets we were sitting, go to the bank, pay the fine at a specific police station & then return to the scene of the crime. The cars were stacked nearly a dozen deep as we got into our cab & negotiated a $700 peso ride to & from & back. A brilliantly profitable operation they have going, I suspect in one evening they make over $10,000! (Dollars not Pesos) I don’t begrudge them, the law is the law & we were ignorant, now we are not, at least about this. So on we went.
These are the moments where the rubber meets the road, both in our marriage & on this adventure. It would be really easy for me to be mad at Dave, to overthink, woulda, coulda, shoulda. Take a walk on the malecon, make a different turn, any number of things that might have produced another more positive outcome. But what possibly is the good of all that?!
We sat in silence most of the taxi drive to the house, Dave beating himself up, me wondering when was the right time to make a joke 😉 “Muy divertido,” I said to our driver, “very fun.”
At the bank we got $11000 pesos, just enough to cover our taxi & fine. Roughly 19 to 1 on the exchange rate, plus the bank fees, that delicious clam chowder cost (including our cocktails 🥃) just over $600usd. An expensive meal & valuable lesson 🤷🏼♀️ After paying the fine, I decided the time for joking had indeed come & remarked, “🍻mas cervesas, ahora…” quickly followed by, “En la casa! 🏠” so the taxi driver didn’t think I was a total ass! We all laughed 😂
It was only upon our return to the car, retrieval our keys & docs that Dave informed me of his relief to see the car where we left it & his hopes that he had indeed made a convincing plea earlier for them not to impound it. Later research via the all powerful Google would reveal our $500usd fine could have been as much as $2500 and something about a mandatory car impounding & 24hours in the clink. Lucky again, dumb luck 😣🍀
Another exhilarating experience in this crazy life we have chosen. I think I can say with some confidence that, although the Mexican police seem to be doing a great job, I do not need to have any more interaction with them in the future.
So here is the thing about me… I want to do so many things. I love writing this blog & hearing from those who are reading it. I am also, highly distract-able 😬 Since my last post nearly two months ago, we have made seven transitions (2 international). As you might imagine finding a quiet place to collect my thoughts to look back & reminisce has been fleeting. So as I frequently do, I will begin again… Forewarning, this post is a bit random (hence Random Musings) & out of order. It feels disjointed & not quite finished, but like I said, to get back on the horse, I had to start somewhere… sorry if it sucks 😉
Even before our plans went south with our PDC Airbnb, we were finally beginning to gain traction on a new budget friendly accommodation strategy: house & petsitting 🏠🐶
House/pet sitting has been a way of life for many people for a long time. You might consider it to be high end couch surfing. I was in middle school, spending the weekend with a friend & her aunt, who I learned was a professional house-sitter. At 12, my interest was piqued. A person could have a job where they got paid to stay at someone’s house? That sounded like a pretty good gig.
Fast forward 30+ years, we have discovered how to incorporate house/pet sitting into our digital nomad/vagabond life. I had read plenty of articles & blogs about house & pet sitting. Before we sold our house, one of those blogs lead me to a website called trustedhousesitters.com
In hindsight, I wish we had done a little more research & preparation to build up our profile, so we could have had access to more & longer sits in the early days of being a member. There are three tiers of membership, basic, standard & premium. All of those come with a background check & unlimited housesits. We originally signed up as basic sitters, but found we got much more traction when we upgraded to Premium.
I would certainly suggest if this is something you might be interested in or would like to explore, start with the basic membership & pick up a few short local sits to get a feel for it first. This is also a great way to garner reviews for future sits.
Whether as a homeowner or pet-sitter, if you use the link above, you get a discount & I get the benefit of added time on my membership 😉
The TrustedHouseSitters platform gives both the homeowner & petsitter ample space to describe themselves, their homes & their experiences. Pet-sitters can easily apply for listed sits & communicate in the THS messenger. As well, homeowners can scroll through all the sitters by location &/or availability. Homeowners can reach out to invite a sitter over posting for applicants. THS also offers a newsletter to help sitters write the best profile & homeowners establish a welcome packet of information.
Our experiences have been pretty good so far & worth the cost of the platform in exchange for free accommodations on the road. We have figured out how to work the system. Initially, I would apply for only one sit & then hope & pray. Now, I apply for multiple sits in a general area, in a general time span & see what hits. We have yet to do multiple interviews for an area over taking whatever comes first.
We have also discovered what we can do & what we’re not willing to do. Two dogs & two cats or any combo of that is our max threshold. I can’t imagine trying to wrangle 3, 4 & 5 dogs. It seems like then it becomes more of a full-time job & less of a trade-off to see a new area & live free. We haven’t had the chance, but we would gladly add in fish, reptiles, chicken & farm animals as those need to be tended to but are generally corralled, not underfoot & high energy like most dogs we have encountered.
Much like our Airbnb experiences, this retired professional organizer can’t help but see better design & organizing opportunities everywhere I go. However, unlike our Airbnb opportunities, where I always jump at the chance to ply my trade in exchange for free/refunded nights, I am certainly not going to dig into these strangers’ cabinets & closets without their permission. My profile does include info on my passion for organizing & an invitation to avail of it, as well as the guarantee that I won’t go snooping around to appease my own OCD.
Our very first house sit was back in Churburná, Yucatán. It was a nice respite after our travails in PDC. An American lawyer, who had lived in Mexico for about five years, had an incredible house right on the beach, with two cats & a little dog. This sit was actually through a different platform called HousesitMexico, same premise but only focused on Mexico 🇲🇽
Our next sit was in Colorado Springs when we were back in the US a minute. This time it was two dogs, one big, one little. The little was clearly the alpha.
As we enter into our second year of life on the road, we have five sits booked over the next four months & have applied to a few more in the new year in the direction we hope to go. As always, there is a learning curve & as always we are leaning in!
If you made it to the end of this one, thanks ☺️ In theory, this has primed the pump to get back to it ✍️ Thanks for coming along for the journey 💜 Until next time….